Everything you need to know about vegetable tanning
At Mapache, we work daily to offer you quality creations . The current context encourages each of us to adopt a more responsible and sustainable mode of consumption, a trend that has resonated strongly at Mapache since its creation (to find out more, do not hesitate to take a look at the philosophy section of our site). As you will have guessed, being anchored in an ethical approach, using semi-vegetable tanning seemed like a real no-brainer.
Last year, we explained how to care for your Mapache shoes to create a sustainable wardrobe. Today, we're going to focus on a key aspect of our huaraches' manufacturing process: tanning.
Tanning is a process that transforms animal skins into soft and durable leather , quite simply!
There are two types of tanning:
Chrome tanning . Less expensive and faster, this technique is the most widespread in the world. However, it is also increasingly denounced because 85% of tanned hides are processed using aluminum salts or chromium 6, highly polluting chemicals that can cause allergies. This material is also non-degradable, and therefore difficult to recycle.
Vegetable tanning . This process is stronger, more absorbent, and water-resistant. Environmentally friendly, it produces deep, highly nuanced colors. Vegetable leather is tanned using a natural substance called tannin, found in bark, leaves, roots, and plant sap. Unlike chrome tanning, this technique takes much longer and the final result is less supple because the leather is less elastic.
Tanning involves various processes , each one as important as the other. We have listed them below:
Skinning , which involves removing the skin from its carcass and classifying it according to its qualities and defects. It can then be salted or dried for preservation.
The work of the river which involves moistening the skin in order to allow its liming and fleshing.
The skin is ready for tanning when it is rendered neutral, that is, freed from the substances applied during liming.
The leather may already be marketed at this stage, but another step is usually added to the process: curing and finishing. This phase involves bringing the leather to the correct thickness, obtaining the desired color and flexibility. It is then stretched and all that remains is to dry it, sand it, satinize it, and possibly print it.
The leather now has its final shape and the assembly of the huaraches is now in the hands of our artisans 🌞
At Mapache, we have decided to opt for a combination of these two processes , thus combining their respective advantages.
Concerned about the environment, it seemed unthinkable to us to neglect the major advantage provided by vegetable tanning. But comfort, quality and more vivid colors are only possible thanks to chrome tanning , which justified opting for the combination of these two processes. Without this technique, the Alegre Champagne or the Ibarra rose gold would for example never have seen the light of day. Our tanneries therefore use chrome 3 tanning in compliance with ISO 19071 standards and thus avoid the appearance of chrome 6 , a very toxic and allergenic chemical element.
... to offer a healthier process to our artisans. No toxic products are used. There is therefore no danger to their health, nor to yours. Closely linked to respect for the environment, using a less harmful method is one of the arguments in favor of semi-vegetable tanning.
... to offer you a leather that is less elastic and more solid. Its good hold, its water resistance and its different shades will make your pair of Mapache unique ;)
Tanning will now hold no secrets for you and you will now be ready to celebrate autumn with pretty shades on your feet ✨
